I climbed and failed exactly the same routes as last session, three weeks ago. Maybe what came, came a bit easier today, and what didn’t come, came a bit further.
A bit special training on pinch grip climbing – that is needed.
Before bouldering: sprints 4×400 (ehrm 393½) meters, 2 minutes rest between – 65,8s 63,4s 72,1s 71,7s.
Bouldering ”only” ~70 minutes today, arrived late and quit when skin felt like it would leave hands. Made a small improvement over last time.
Bouldering ~1½ hours with Martin. All routes were new so I was all over the place, but found one that I almost made that is the goal for next session.
Bouldering ~1½ hours with Martin & Tommy. Last time before they rebuild the whole wall. Didn’t finish anything new, but still think I improved a bit … came further/easier on harder problems.
Didn’t wear out like earlier workouts, when the place was about to close I was still making meaningful attempts at a hard route.
I’ve never used statics or negatives to any degree because it’s not convenient to do negatives in a gym setting, and statics is kind of boring because of lack of feedback. In climbing static and negative contractions are built into the activity, for example when locking off one arm and reaching a hold with the next.
Same thing with statics and negatives applies to wrestling, but here the resistance comes mostly from the opponent, not gravity.
Today was climbing with Martin for about 1½ hour. A measurable improvement this time also … we can’t stay on this development curve for much longer now.
They will rebuild all routes within 10 days, so after that we’ll start over (I’ll make sure to be in really bad shape first day on the new wall 
)
This is a new problem that I made, but unfortunately that attempt didn’t get caught on camera, this was the next best.
Bouldering for 1:45 hours (Yes! I’m getting addicted). Fascinating how a problem can go from seemingly impossible to relatively easy once you start doing things correctly.
Nice improvement from last time, body control is getting better, hands are getting tougher.
Morning workout: To get some ”push” into this cycle, for time :
15-12-9 rep rounds of 60 kg thrusters and muscle-ups.
Time 13:54
Did the thrusters out of a rack, could probably have done first set unbroken, but even broken at 10/5 it took too much out of me. The muscle-ups were done on the chromed part of a smith machine bar set at forehead height.
Evening workout: Bouldering for 1½ hours, only slight improvement from last time, but 3×50 GHDs the day before and MUs same day is probably not optimal. I think I noticed an increased understanding about climbing.
”Multidimensionality” is one of my favourite articles from Performance Menu. Climbing is more complex/multidimensional than kipping pullups, L-pullups and even rope climb. Time will tell if it’s more productive than those exercises. Anyway … it sure is nice to get exercised while playing.
Bouldered today, more than a month since last/first time, wasn’t sure before if I could expect a improvement, but I had improved since last time – finished ”the route” early in the workout. Held a lower pace through this workout, that helped keep quality up.
Did the ”Got grip?”-WOD (~4m climb) with Martin & Björn, we did this to give the grip a headstart before we go bouldering next week. Found out in the fourth round that I had no grip, was almost all the way up and just slid down the rope, still a really good full-body hit even though grip was the limiting factor. Time 6:01.
Bouldering with Martin & Björn for ~1½ hours. Really fun. After wearing us out on trying a few different things we all got caught on the same route, I suppose that will be our bouldering-Fran 
In the second half of the workout I reclimbed a few routes I did quite easily in the beginning just to find out I couldn’t grip anything.
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